BUSINESS UNUSUAL WITH KORNIT DIGITAL - WHY IS FASHION BROKEN
“BUSINESS UNUSUAL” - DEBBIE MCKEEGAN INTERVIEW WITH OMER KULKA CMO, KORNIT DIGITAL
The Fashion industry is broken and in this interview we discuss why and how the industry needs to adapt and to retool for a new chapter in its history.
This interview was recorded in June 2020 early on in the global pandemic. As it turns out COVID-19 has been a catalyst for positive change.
Please note: Video starts 06:19 minutes in.
#fastfashion #sustainability #digitaltextileprinting #textiles #kornitdigital
From Dongles to Digital: Future‑Proof Licensing for Global Creative Teams
Host Debbie McKeegan talks with NedGraphics President Frank Maeder and 10Duke CEO Neil Fenton about the shift from hardware dongles to secure, user‑centric cloud licensing.
They discuss how this transition reduces friction for designers, supports hybrid and global workflows, strengthens security and resilience, and even contributes to sustainability by eliminating physical keys and their shipping footprint.
If you’re in fashion, design, CAD/CAM, or any creative production environment and want to future‑proof your software delivery, this discussion is packed with insight and real‑world examples.
Listen to learn more >>
In this insightful interview, Dave Conner, Director of Product Marketing at Stahls and Fulfill Engine, shares his journey into the textile industry.
The commercial opportunity presented by printed, personalised merchandise is already a lucrative revenue stream; it is the core driver of growth in a multi-billion-pound industry. And the mandate for print businesses is clear: automate, adapt, and offer undeniable added value, or choose to gradually lose market share.
This is not merely a shift in consumer demand; it is the fundamental evolution of the printed surface. By leveraging adaptive manufacturing, 3D added value, and sustainable surface effects, digital printers can secure their future by offering unique print applications across apparel, interior décor, accessories, and bespoke objects.
Discover how automation, materials, and community collaboration are shaping the future of on-demand garment decoration and fulfilment.
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast episode, Ulrich Scherbel, CEO of AMSilk, discusses the innovative production of bioengineered spider silk protein and its applications in the textile industry, going far beyond fibre and with the power to radically transform inks and chemistry.
He explains the challenges of scaling up production, the importance of sustainability, and how AMSilk's technology can significantly reduce carbon emissions. The conversation also touches on the role of AI in protein bioengineering and the future vision for transforming the textile supply chain through collaboration and innovation.
Listen to learn more >>
In this insightful interview, Jon Bailey, COO of Precision Proco, shares his journey into the print industry, leadership philosophy, and how embracing change and innovation has shaped his success.
Discover practical lessons on building a resilient business, nurturing talent, and leveraging AI for future growth.
Listen to learn more >>
In this conversation, Meike Nieuwenhuis shares her multifaceted approach to fashion design, emphasising the importance of collaboration, upcycling, and engaging with cultural heritage.
She discusses her experiences with digital printing and the Epson Innovation day at the NautaSign micro-factory, highlighting the need for sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
Listen to learn more >>
In this episode, MeiLin Wan, founder of GenuTrace, discusses the critical importance of traceability in the textile industry, particularly in light of increasing regulations and consumer expectations. With nearly a billion pounds of materials tracked under her leadership, MeiLin emphasises the shift from marketing claims to scientifically substantiated proof of sustainability. She highlights the need for both physical and digital verification methods, such as DNA testing and isotope analysis, to ensure that products are ethically sourced and compliant with regulations like the UFLPA. The conversation also touches on the evolving relationships between manufacturers and retailers, the challenges of integrating new technologies, and the necessity of transparency throughout the supply chain.
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast, we explore the innovative world of sustainable inks with Punch Perrasin, founder of GrowInk and a 2025 graduate of Central St.Martins, London.
The conversation delves into the environmental challenges posed by traditional inks and how GrowInk’s research is redefining the printing industry with biodegradable inks derived from natural sources. Punch shares his journey from studying Material Fusion at Central Saint Martins to developing inks that not only provide colour but also contribute to environmental sustainability.
The discussion highlights the importance of collaboration between science and design, the challenges faced in research, and the potential for a shift in consumer perception towards temporary inks. Ultimately, the podcast emphasises the need for a more sustainable approach to printing and the role of the next generation in driving this change.
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast episode, Carry Somers discusses her book, 'The Nature of Fashion,' which explores the deep connections between fashion, nature, and sustainability. She emphasises the importance of understanding fashion's botanical past to envision a more sustainable future. The conversation delves into the impact of natural fibres, the exploitation within the fashion industry, and the lessons we can learn from history. Carry shares inspiring stories of individuals working to revive traditional textile practices and highlights the need for a balance between modern innovation and ancient wisdom. Ultimately, she calls for a shift in perspective, urging listeners to see the deeper connections behind the materials we use in fashion.
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan interviews Frank Maeder, president of NedGraphics and Optitex to discuss the latest 2026 software release and its significance in the textile design industry.
They explore the importance of software updates, the integration of AI in design tools, and the introduction of new features like AI-assisted tagging and colourway generation.
The conversation also delves into realism and simulation in textile design, highlighting the launch of the OPTINED Academy for training users on these advanced tools. Overall, the episode emphasises the need for continuous adaptation and learning in a rapidly evolving industry.
Listen to learn more >>
In this conversation, Debbie McKeegan speaks with Lisbeth Lyons Black, the director of the Women in Print Alliance, about the organisation's mission to support women in the printing industry.
They discuss the challenges women face, the importance of community and networking, and the various educational programs offered to empower women.
The conversation also touches on the impact of technology and AI on the workforce, the need for continuous learning, and the future initiatives of the Women in Print Alliance.
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews David Williamson, CEO at Modern Meadow, discussing the revolutionary advancements in biomaterials and their impact on sustainable textiles. They explore the concept of bio-design, the innovative production processes of Innovera, and how these materials compare to traditional leather. The conversation also delves into the sustainability challenges facing the textile industry, the role of luxury brands in adopting biomaterials, and the importance of trust and transparency in the supply chain. Williamson shares insights on the future of biomaterials, emphasising the need for scalable production and circularity in material design.
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews the design team from Mini Moderns, Keith Stephenson and Mark Hampshire.
They discuss their journey from branding to product design, the evolution of their product offerings, and their creative process.
The conversation also touches on the challenges faced in the design industry, the importance of colour and pattern, the impact of digital technology on their work, and the significance of strong manufacturing relationships.
They share valuable advice for aspiring designers and look ahead to future collections and celebrations for their 20th anniversary.
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews the inventor Cam Myers the founder of CreateMe
A technology company focused on automating the assembly of apparel using adhesive technology. They discuss the challenges in the apparel industry, including the skills gap, labour availability, and the inefficiencies of traditional sewing methods.
Cam explains how their innovative approach not only improves efficiency but also addresses sustainability concerns.
The conversation explores the future of automated apparel production, the role of robotics, and how automation can enhance creative design in the fashion industry.
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews Marta Naranowicz, the creative director at Caro and online brand Feeby based in Poland. Together they explore the evolution of digital wall coverings, and the impact of the latest technologies alongside AI creativity for the printing industry. Marta shares insights on sustainability, customisation, and the importance of innovation in design, as well as offering practical advice for designers and brands looking to expand into the lucrative wall coverings marketplace.
In this conversation, Debbie McKeegan, Brooke Roberts-Islam, and Anja Sadock discuss the critical topic of compliance in the fashion industry, focusing on the increasing number of regulations and the importance of data management in ensuring compliance. They explore the challenges faced by smaller businesses in navigating these regulations and highlight the opportunities that arise from embracing compliance as a positive step forward.
The discussion emphasises the need for a structured approach to data collection and the importance of mapping supply chains to improve transparency and accountability.
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews Kate Hills, founder of Make It British, discussing the state of UK manufacturing, particularly in the fashion and textile industry. They explore the Leicester Made event, the challenges faced by fashion manufacturers in Leicester, the importance of local production, and the need for a national campaign to promote 'Made in Britain'. The conversation highlights the benefits of choosing UK manufacturers, the issues of onshoring, and the necessity for a fairer industry that values Quality over Quantity.
In this conversation, Debbie McKeegan, Fespa Textile Ambassador and Mike Scrutton of Adobe discuss the latest innovations in textile printing, focusing on Adobe's PDF print engine 7 update and its impact on the industry. They explore the challenges of colour management, the importance of automation, and the future of on-demand manufacturing and personalisation in textile printing. The discussion also highlights the need for better visualisation tools to meet customer expectations and the potential for exciting advancements in the field. Listen to learn more…
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan interviews Guy Yaniv, President of EMEA at Kornit Digital about the future of personalised fashion.
They discuss the shift in consumer demand towards individuality and self-expression, the technological advancements in garment decoration, and the impact of their Apollo technology on production processes. The conversation highlights the importance of agility in the apparel industry and the need for organisations to adapt to changing market demands. They also explore the challenges of digital transformation and the role of technology in empowering creativity within the fashion ecosystem...
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews Suzi Ward, the Managing Director of Fespa UK, discussing the evolution of the association, its role in supporting the print industry, and the importance of community engagement.
They explore the growth of membership, sustainability initiatives, and the Next Generation programs aimed at engaging youth in the industry.
The conversation highlights the challenges faced by small businesses, the need for government support, and the significance of networking within the print community.
Suzi emphasises the mantra of making a difference in all initiatives and the importance of collaboration for the future of the industry.”
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan talks with Michael Mayr, a co-founder of Silana a Robotic sewing technology company based in Vienna, Austria.
Michael discusses the challenges and innovations in the textile industry, particularly focusing on robotic sewing and automated, sustainable production. He shares insights from his background in fashion, the need for automation, and the role of AI in revolutionising garment manufacturing.
The conversation highlights:
The importance of nearshoring production,
The challenges faced in the industry, and
The vision for a more sustainable future in fashion…
Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan and April Holyome – head of Product at the luxury Italian brand 16Arlington discuss the evolving landscape of fashion at the Epson Textile Academy. They focus on sustainability, career paths, and the importance of understanding the supply chain. April shares her journey from a print graduate to head of product at 16 Arlington, emphasising the need for creativity and business acumen in the fashion industry. They explore the significance of internships, the role of sustainability in design, and the importance of confidence and knowledge in navigating the fashion world. Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan and Bobby Grauf discuss the rise of product personalisation in the printing industry and the software that enables on-demand customisation. They explore how consumer demand for personalised products has surged and how this trend is reshaping market opportunities and the software the print industry must invest in to meet expectations.
The conversation delves into the importance of technology in enhancing customer experiences and the role of AI in streamlining the personalisation process. Bobby shares insights on how businesses can leverage these trends to create unique offerings and improve customer satisfaction. The discussion also highlights the importance of optimising production and fulfillment processes to meet customer expectations in the evolving printing industry. Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan hosts a roundtable discussion with Guy Alroy of Early.Vision, Oliver Mustoe Playfair of Prinfab and Phil McMullin of Epson UK. Their discussion explores the paradigm shift in the fashion industry from fast fashion to personalised fashion, highlighting the challenges, solutions, and benefits for the manufacturing community. Looking at all aspects of production to share their knowledge and expertise on how automation software in tandem with smart technology offers a solid solution for optimised apparel manufacture.Experts from Printfab, Epson, and Early Vision share insights on the role of technology, sustainability, and the future of apparel production. Listen to learn more >>
“In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan interviews Michael Chramtchenko, Chief of Staff - Sales and Marketing at Fiery. They discuss the company's innovative software solutions for the print industry, particularly in garment decoration. They explore the disruption caused by direct-to-film technologies, the importance of colour management, and the future potential of automation and AI in print technology. The conversation highlights the challenges and opportunities in on-demand apparel production and the evolving landscape of the textile industry…Listen to learn more >>
“In this engaging conversation, Debbie McKeegan speaks with Kathryn Sanders, founder of Western Sensibility, about her journey in the textile and digital printing industry. They discuss the innovative services offered to the interior design industry by Western Sensibility, including custom printing for various materials, the launch of their Innovation Lab, and their commitment to sustainability. Kathryn shares her passion for democratising design, the evolution of textiles and wallcoverings, and the importance of creative collaborations. The conversation concludes with insights into the future aspirations of Western Sensibility and the exciting projects on the horizon”.
In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan interviews Frank Maeder, president of NedGraphics and Optitex, discussing the evolution of textile design, the integration of technology, and the importance of sustainability. They explore how designers' roles have changed, the impact of digital tools like NedHub and their latest software release, plus the necessity of partnerships in the industry. The conversation also touches on the future of AI in design and the need for seamless workflows to enhance creativity and efficiency. Listen to learn more >>
In this podcast episode, Debbie McKeegan interviews Viktor Lazzeri, COO of Barbieri Electronic, to discuss the critical role of spectrophotometers in achieving colour accuracy in digital printing. They explore the science behind colour measurement, the importance of consistency, and the challenges of matching colours across different materials. Viktor shares insights on minimising waste and reducing reprints through effective process control, emphasising the need for standards and colour accuracy in the printing industry.” Listen to learn more >>
"In this podcast we meet Adam Root, founder of Matter Industries and his innovation Regen™ , a capture technology to remove microfibres from the textile manufacturing process for the benefit of human and environmental health. We also meet Lewis Shuler of Paradise Textiles who are collaborating on research and the application of Matter’s technology for textile manufacturing. The retrofittable technology reduces microfibre emissions and operating costs for textile factories, offering a scalable solution for the industry. Backed by Regeneration.VC - the Leonardo DiCaprio supported climate tech fund – with the announcement made at its Annual Meeting during New York Climate Week. The first installation is planned at Paradise Textiles’ sustainable textile facility in Egypt by Q4 2025.”
"In this podcast, Debbie McKeegan interviews Francesco Nozza, the business development manager at Epson Italia, together they discuss the future of industrial direct to textile printing. They explore key market insights for Autumn 2024, the impact of e-commerce on fashion and sportswear, and the innovative solutions Epson offers to meet the changing demands of the textile industry. The conversation highlights the importance of sustainability, the shift from traditional to digital printing, and the advancements in Epson's Monna Lisa suite of machines. " Listen to learn more >>
Is the Textile Market Finally Recovering?
After a difficult few years, there are genuine reasons for optimism. Duncan was candid about the challenges: "The market for textiles has been very difficult over the last three years. I'm not going to hide the truth there. But the tide is turning.“
Sportswear held relatively firm throughout the downturn, and customised apparel is now showing renewed momentum. Duncan noted a significant rise in interest around direct-to-film (DTF) technology - while direct-to-fabric printing is also regaining traction.
A profound shift is currently reshaping the sector
Changing consumer expectations demand greater design diversity, faster turnaround times, and sustainable manufacturing practices.
To thrive, interior brands must adapt their supply chains, bringing production closer to the end consumer and moving away from bulk manufacturing.
Digital textile printing offers a definitive solution to these operational bottlenecks.
Digital transformation doesn't announce itself.
It accumulates - one innovation at a time - until an entire industry looks back and realises the ground has shifted beneath its feet. That's precisely where textiles stands today.
The conversations happening now about AI, automation, sustainability, and digital product passports are not theoretical. They are shaping decisions being made on factory floors and in boardrooms right now.
“By leveraging advanced digital textile printing, Marylene Madou has successfully merged traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Her approach offers a blueprint for how independent designers can scale their brands globally while maintaining a minimal environmental footprint.”
What Is the Digital Product Passport?
At its core, a Digital Product Passport is a digital record attached to a physical product - typically accessed via a QR code, NFC chip, or barcode – that documents everything about that product across its entire lifecycle.
For a printed textile product, this means the DPP would capture data on the substrate, inks and dyes used, the printing process and technology, chemical compliance, environmental impact (including water and energy use), supply chain traceability, and end-of-life instructions.
From Helsinki's printing mill to Paris's Le Marais, discover how Marimekko is scaling a design-led brand with purpose, craft, and bold innovation.
But what makes Marimekko's story compelling is not just its aesthetic legacy?
The textile industry is undergoing a vital transformation. As the insights from Techtextil and Texprocess reveal, the path forward relies on a combination of sustainable hardware, intelligent chemistry, and seamless digital workflows.
From Zimmer's industrial-scale energy reductions and Stratasys's on-demand 3D embellishments, to Kornit's single-step technical printing and the unified digital ecosystems of NedGraphics and Optitex, the tools for change are here. To stay competitive, brands and manufacturers must adopt these innovations, moving away from fragmented, wasteful processes towards a truly connected, circular economy.
Friedmans stands as a testament to the power of combining traditional textile knowledge with forward-thinking innovation.
“Operating from their UK headquarters, Friedmans now serves a diverse array of sectors, including swimwear, dance, entertainment, sportswear, interior decor, prosthetics, and even pet apparel. With a strategic supply chain that reliably serves clients worldwide”
The apparel decoration industry is decisively moving away from isolated, analogue production tools toward connected digital manufacturing environments.
"Kornit’s unwavering commitment to transformative technology continues to disrupt the status quo. For business leaders and innovators ready to capture the future of apparel manufacturing, the path forward is clear”
The Urgent Need for Sustainability at Scale
The transformation at Coats provides a vital blueprint for the wider textile and apparel sector. True sustainability cannot be achieved in silos. As Dearing emphasised:
“Cross-industry collaboration is the engine of meaningful change. Brands, machinery suppliers, chemical providers, and fibre producers must act as an interconnected ecosystem”
Today’s customers demand superior product quality, real-time data visibility, and lightning-fast turnaround times.
For large-scale garment decorators, managing these expectations while balancing seasonal demand fluctuations - such as the massive surges seen during Black Friday - presents a monumental challenge.
"Relying on transactional vendor relationships and outdated legacy equipment is no longer sufficient to secure long-term stability and growth.”
Printing method is never a secondary detail. It shapes the entire life cycle of a product, from concept to customer. In today’s fashion industry, where margins are tighter and speed matters more than ever, technical knowledge has become a competitive advantage.
“The future of textile design belongs to professionals who can combine creativity with execution, aesthetics with practicality, and vision with production reality”.
Today’s consumers do not just want a printed t-shirt. They demand high-quality, sustainable, bespoke products delivered with the frictionless transparency of an Uber ride or an Amazon parcel.
“To capture premium margins in this crowded, accelerating marketplace, garment decorators must move beyond apparel and embrace a new frontier of end-to-end automation, hybrid technologies, and ethical production”.
Are we witnessing the reinvention of Merch driven by adaptive, digital technologies?
The commercial opportunity presented by printed, personalised merchandise is already a lucrative revenue stream; it is the core driver of growth in a multi-billion-pound industry. And the mandate for print businesses is clear: automate, adapt, and offer undeniable added value, or choose to gradually lose market share.
Powderless DTF is an important area of innovation. It deserves research, investment, and thoughtful development.
“But at its current stage, it often feels like the industry is attempting to commercialize the concept ahead of the underlying chemistry and system readiness”.
All Apparel Manufacturers face an Urgent Mandate: “Automate or be Left Behind”.
Industry leaders like Super Nova Sports and Ryozo International were struggling with severe pre-press bottlenecks and unsustainable fabric waste. By integrating AI Sublimation Software into their workflows, these forward-thinking businesses eliminated manual variable data entry, boosted fabric efficiency to over 80%, and reduced delivery times by more than half, establishing a highly profitable, agile, and environmentally responsible production model.
The Future of Manufacturing belongs to those who Embrace Connected Digital Ecosystems
“Whether you produce garments, car interiors, or home furnishings, the transition from creative concept to production-ready product often remains fragmented. Design teams work tirelessly to develop compelling materials, yet technical teams struggle to interpret these visions without losing data along the way.”
The European digital wallcovering marketplace is expanding at an impressive rate.
“For print professionals and interior designers, this transition presents a distinct set of challenges. Achieving flawless colour consistency, managing complex substrates, and meeting stringent environmental standards are no longer optional extras; they are fundamental requirements for commercial success.”
If you're looking to optimize your website for AI search, hang onto your cowboy hat. It's the Wild West out there. Former (and current) SEO companies see the handwriting on the wall as more search moves from traditional SEO to AEO (answer engine optimisation). Opportunists are popping out of the woodwork.
(There are good options out there, but vet them carefully.)
A swimsuit might start life as a sketch. By the time it reaches the shop floor, dozens of hands have touched it - designers, dye houses, printers, trim manufacturers, quality controllers. Each one interprets colour in their own way, under their own conditions, with their own tools. The result is often a product that looks nothing like the original vision.
A New Approach to Smart Fabric
“As you think about the characteristics of your wardrobe, integrated technology will increasingly become a deciding factor as to what you buy and wear, expanding the capabilities of apparel to meet needs perhaps you didn’t even know you had.”
The latest innovations offer compelling solutions to long-standing challenges: reducing setup times, eliminating minimum order quantities, and delivering exceptional print quality across diverse fabric types.
For many print businesses, the challenge is how quickly you can integrate these technologies to maintain competitive advantage in an ever-evolving ecosystem.
A New Lifecycle: Application and Degradation
“We can continue with the status quo of toxic permanence, or we can embrace the intelligence of nature. Technologies like GrowInk prove that we can have vibrant, functional colour without the lasting environmental cost.
By accepting that not everything needs to last forever, we might just build a future that does.”
For our community, the takeaway is clear.
Innovation does not happen in isolation. If you are serious about shaping the future of textile design and production, you need to be present where ideas, experience, and perspective converge. Engage in the conversations, build relationships beyond transactions, and invest in spaces that allow you to learn not just from technology, but from one another. That is where lasting progress is made.
The stark reality: the strategies that secured your market share yesterday may well render you invisible tomorrow.
The influx of Generative AI has created a dichotomy on the web: the Synthetic and the Human. As AI floods the internet with competent but commoditised content, the value of genuine human insight is skyrocketing.
The challenge now is not how to use AI to do more, but how to use your humanity to matter more
“Design can better our world by expanding empathy and education, to increase awareness – that’s why I am a GREEN GRAD” - Lydia Hill.
"After many years of feeling out of place, I have found like-minded people who share my passion for the planet. Amazing advice from industry professionals has given me the confidence and encouragement to pursue my goals and aim higher than before.”
The Greatest Opportunity for Commercial Reinvention seen in Decades
“As traditional supply chains fracture under new tariffs and rising input costs, the manufacturers who will thrive are those who transition from being passive producers of stock to agile partners in on-demand, digital ecosystems.”.
The Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region is currently undergoing a profound transformation.
Driven by ambitious government initiatives and a rapidly digitising economy, the print and signage sectors are finding themselves at the centre of a commercial renaissance.
The industry cannot afford to ignore the next generation. These graduates are not just seeking employment; they are offering solutions to the problems that established firms are scrambling to solve.
The GREENGRADS exhibition at the Surface Design Show is a testament to the power of education and the necessity of hope. By attending, you are not just viewing products; you are supporting a movement towards a cleaner, more ethical built environment.
Is your print business equipped for the future?
“The challenge for any print business operating in the textile ecosystem is to navigate this rapidly evolving landscape. Success is no longer just about print quality; it’s about agility, efficiency, sustainability, and the ability to offer personalised products at scale. The traditional, water-intensive, and wasteful methods of the past are being displaced by a powerful digital ecosystem”.
Image Credit: EFI REGGIANI