Unpacking Toxicity in Textiles: Myths, Facts, and Solutions
The word "toxic" carries weight. It conjures danger, harm, and things best avoided
“Yet in the textile industry - Where between 3,000 and 10,000 chemicals move through the supply chain, a reflexive fear of the term is one of our biggest obstacles to progress.”
WRITTEN BY DEBBIE McKEEGAN | CEO | Texintel
The word "toxic" carries weight. It conjures danger, harm, and things best avoided. Yet in the textile industry - where between 3,000 and 10,000 chemicals move through the supply chain, a reflexive fear of the term is one of our biggest obstacles to progress.
At the Future Fabrics Expo 2026, a panel of leading voices in sustainable chemistry, material innovation, and investment did something the industry rarely does well: held an honest, nuanced conversation about textile chemistry and toxicity. Moderated by innovation advisor Sophie Mather (biov8tion), the discussion brought together Libby Sommer (green chemistry advisor), Matthias Foessel (co-founder and CEO of WTRLSS), Irene Maffini (investor and operator at Fashion Reimagined), and Sumitra Rajagopalan (founder and CEO of Bioastra Technologies).
This article distils the key takeaways and what buyers, designers, and brands should be asking right now.
Framing the Conversation: Toxicity Is Not a Binary
Sophie Mather set the baseline: toxicity is not simply "good" or "bad." It is the degree to which a substance can cause harm and always contingent on dose, exposure, and context.
"Take water and oxygen," she noted. "Neither is inherently good or bad. Both can cause harm through use."
Most stakeholders never engage with this nuance. The word "toxic" triggers alarm, and alarm rarely leads to good decisions. It leads to avoidance and avoidance is exactly how the industry ends up with regrettable substitutions, unexamined supply chains, and circular systems full of chemical leakages.
Why"Bio-Based" Does Not Mean Safe
The most damaging myth the panel addressed is the assumption that bio-based materials are inherently safe. Libby Sommer was unequivocal: "There is absolutely no correlation between whether something is bio-based and its safety."
She pointed to research around the USDA's BioPreferred programme, where most institutional purchasers surveyed believed "bio-preferred" meant "safe." It does not. It means only that the carbon comes from a biological source. The identical molecule can be produced from either a biological or petroleum-based source with no difference in its toxicological profile.
What determines safety is molecular structure, not the origin of the carbon. As brands rush to communicate sustainability through bio-based claims, that distinction matters. Without interrogating the chemistry, such claims mislead consumers, obscure real risks, and as Irene Maffini noted, create products that are unrecyclable at end of life.
The Chemistry Lurking in Your "Sustainable" Materials
As an investor who has backed over 40 climate tech companies and Chief Commercial Officer of DyeRecycle, Irene Maffini has watched commercial pressure quietly dismantle good intentions.
"A lot of companies start with very high ambitions," she said. "They want to create a 100% bio-based, mono-material that can be home composted. Then the commercial reality hits." A polyester backing here, a flame retardant there - each decision makes sense alone. "But when you put it all together… you've created a little monster that cannot be recycled."
Her concern is acute around PFAS. The transition from C8 to C6 to C0 chemistries has repeatedly produced what she calls "regrettable substitutions." "I'm very concerned that a lot of C0 chemistries… are creating a lot of other regrettable substitutions where we actually have no idea about the toxicology profile," she warned.
The Circularity Crisis Hidden in Plain Sight
The panel exposed a broken feedback loop between textile chemistry and recycling infrastructure.
Today, 99% of recycled polyester comes from plastic bottles - not from textiles. The reason is simple: chemistry in clothing actively prevents recycling. Blended fibers, dyed fabrics, and elastane-laced garments are largely untouchable.
DyeRecycle addresses this as a pre-processing step, removing colour, elastane, and finishing chemicals so fiber can enter recycling systems. What was waste becomes a platform.
The problem will only intensify. Bottles are set to return to packaging under incoming regulation. If textile-to-textile recycling cannot scale, the entire circularity narrative collapses and the primary barrier to scaling is chemistry.
Reduce the Chemistry, Reduce the Risk
Matthias Foessel offered a counterintuitive question: rather than swapping hazardous chemicals for safer ones, why not eliminate entire process steps?
His waterless dyeing technology (WTRLSS) for denim does exactly that. Traditional denim involves 10 to 15 steps, each involving chemistry. His team asked why those steps need to exist at all. The result is a single-step digital printing process using bio-based ink activators, no post-washing, no steaming, and roughly two tablespoons of water per garment. Given that conventional dyeing uses four times more auxiliaries than dye, eliminating the steps eliminates those auxiliaries entirely.
"If I can find something that reduces the amount needed to be applied, it mitigates a lot of the toxic risks," Matthias observed. His next goal: applying bio-based finishes through digital printing heads, uniting dyeing and finishing in one step.
Design Molecules Like Engineers, Not Chemists
Sumitra Rajagopalan gave the most forward-looking perspective. The industry keeps trading one problem for another, she argued, because chemistry is still taught through a 19th-century lens.
"Chemistry is being taught today the way it was taught in my great grandfather's time," she said. "The same textbooks."
Her call: treat molecules as engineering challenges, not formulas to be catalogued as safe or unsafe. Just as a bridge must both hold weight and allow passage, materials must stop accepting the false trade-off between performance and safety. At Bioastra, this mindset produced a bio-based polyurethane alternative on a citric acid platform without the isocyanate toxicity of conventional polyurethane. Performance, she notes, is often the easy part; the harder challenge is adoption within existing infrastructure at cost parity.
She also flagged an underserved issue: intermediate chemicals. "We've gone beyond the 100% bio-based claim to look at some of the intermediate chemicals that don't make it to the final product, but that affect workers."
The Tools to Act Already Exist
Libby Sommer introduced ChemForward - a tool born out of the Cradle to Cradle Institute, now piloting a system-level evaluation of chemistry across the textile industry.
The context matters. Of the 3,000 to 10,000 chemicals used in textiles, only around 400 appear on Restricted Substance Lists. Regulation typically lags 10 to 20 years behind a problem - PFAS being the defining example.
ChemForward maps the entire inventory of textile chemistry, assessing which substances are low hazard, high hazard, or simply unknown. It is the first system-level look the industry has taken at its collective chemical impacts. The goal is to embed this data into existing supply chain tools, moving stakeholders beyond RSL compliance toward genuine hazard assessment. A report is due later this year.
What Buyers, Designers, and Brands Should Be Asking Now?
The tools and knowledge already exist. What is missing is the confidence to ask the right questions.
On chemistry and materials:
Ask for a chemical hazard assessment, not just a life cycle assessment. LCAs will not tell you about toxicity.
When you hear "bio-based," ask what that means specifically the carbon source, or the molecule's safety and end-of-life behaviour?
On circularity and end of life:
Ask whether the material has been assessed for recyclability using current technologies - not aspirational ones.
Ask what pre-processing is required before it can enter a recycling stream, and whether that infrastructure exists at scale.
On PFAS and substitutions:
If a supplier is moving away from PFAS, ask what is replacing it and whether that replacement has been assessed for toxicology.
Request a credible, honest roadmap for managing current chemical liabilities.
A Note on Policy:
Libby noted that U.S. states (not the EU) are currently the most active jurisdictions on chemicals legislation, with little harmonisation between California, Minnesota, New Mexico, and others.
The deeper challenge is the collision between hazardous substance regulation and textile-to-textile recycling. Post-consumer textiles carry decades of legacy chemistry that may breach current rules. Regulation must help the industry navigate that tension, not simply add compliance burdens. As Sumitra put it, legislators write laws faster than innovators can develop substitutes - so industry needs a seat at the table when definitions like "bio-based" are drafted.
In Summary
The conversation around textile chemistry and toxicity is not one the industry can keep at arm's length. The complexity is real but the tools, data, and expertise to navigate it are increasingly accessible. The cost of continued avoidance, measured in unrecyclable waste, worker exposure, and regrettable substitutions, is rising.
Fear of the word "toxic" is understandable. Acting on that fear without understanding is not.
The word "toxic" carries weight. It conjures danger, harm, and things best avoided.
“Yet in the textile industry - Where between 3,000 and 10,000 chemicals move through the supply chain, a reflexive fear of the term is one of our biggest obstacles to progress.”
This article distils the key takeaways and what buyers, designers, and brands should be asking right now.
What Is the Digital Product Passport?
At its core, a Digital Product Passport is a digital record attached to a physical product - For a printed textile product, this means the DPP would capture data on the substrate, inks and dyes used, the printing process and technology, chemical compliance, environmental impact (including water and energy use), supply chain traceability, and end-of-life instructions.
The Market Gap that Changed Everything
Future Fashion was founded in 2019, timed deliberately to coincide with a pivotal moment in global textile technology: the commercial launch of the EFI Reggiani BOLT Single-Pass digital printing system.
The founders recognised that single-pass architecture had fundamentally changed what was industrially possible - and that Pakistan's domestic market had yet to catch up.
Print is no longer defined by the inefficiencies that once characterised it…as advances in production processes and technology have significantly improved its environmental performance.
Taran Rai, Corporate Sustainability Manager at Epson explains why?
The story of what happens when young designers access digital technology is still being written.
What once was a theoretical sustainability goal seems to have shifted into an active regulatory reality.
Is the Textile Market Finally Recovering?
After a difficult few years, there are genuine reasons for optimism. Duncan was candid about the challenges: "The market for textiles has been very difficult over the last three years. I'm not going to hide the truth there. But the tide is turning.“
A profound shift is currently reshaping the sector
Changing consumer expectations demand greater design diversity, faster turnaround times, and sustainable manufacturing practices.
To thrive, interior brands must adapt their supply chains, bringing production closer to the end consumer and moving away from bulk manufacturing.
Digital textile printing offers a definitive solution to these operational bottlenecks.
Digital transformation doesn't announce itself.
It accumulates - one innovation at a time - until an entire industry looks back and realises the ground has shifted beneath its feet. That's precisely where textiles stands today.
The conversations happening now about AI, automation, sustainability, and digital product passports are not theoretical. They are shaping decisions being made on factory floors and in boardrooms right now.
“By leveraging advanced digital textile printing, Marylene Madou has successfully merged traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Her approach offers a blueprint for how independent designers can scale their brands globally while maintaining a minimal environmental footprint.”
From Helsinki's printing mill to Paris's Le Marais, discover how Marimekko is scaling a design-led brand with purpose, craft, and bold innovation.
But what makes Marimekko's story compelling is not just its aesthetic legacy?
The textile industry is undergoing a vital transformation. As the insights from Techtextil and Texprocess reveal, the path forward relies on a combination of sustainable hardware, intelligent chemistry, and seamless digital workflows.
From Zimmer's industrial-scale energy reductions and Stratasys's on-demand 3D embellishments, to Kornit's single-step technical printing and the unified digital ecosystems of NedGraphics and Optitex, the tools for change are here. To stay competitive, brands and manufacturers must adopt these innovations, moving away from fragmented, wasteful processes towards a truly connected, circular economy.
Friedmans stands as a testament to the power of combining traditional textile knowledge with forward-thinking innovation.
“Operating from their UK headquarters, Friedmans now serves a diverse array of sectors, including swimwear, dance, entertainment, sportswear, interior decor, prosthetics, and even pet apparel. With a strategic supply chain that reliably serves clients worldwide”
The apparel decoration industry is decisively moving away from isolated, analogue production tools toward connected digital manufacturing environments.
"Kornit’s unwavering commitment to transformative technology continues to disrupt the status quo. For business leaders and innovators ready to capture the future of apparel manufacturing, the path forward is clear”
The Urgent Need for Sustainability at Scale
The transformation at Coats provides a vital blueprint for the wider textile and apparel sector. True sustainability cannot be achieved in silos. As Dearing emphasised:
“Cross-industry collaboration is the engine of meaningful change. Brands, machinery suppliers, chemical providers, and fibre producers must act as an interconnected ecosystem”
Today’s customers demand superior product quality, real-time data visibility, and lightning-fast turnaround times.
For large-scale garment decorators, managing these expectations while balancing seasonal demand fluctuations - such as the massive surges seen during Black Friday - presents a monumental challenge.
"Relying on transactional vendor relationships and outdated legacy equipment is no longer sufficient to secure long-term stability and growth.”
Printing method is never a secondary detail. It shapes the entire life cycle of a product, from concept to customer. In today’s fashion industry, where margins are tighter and speed matters more than ever, technical knowledge has become a competitive advantage.
“The future of textile design belongs to professionals who can combine creativity with execution, aesthetics with practicality, and vision with production reality”.
Are we witnessing the reinvention of Merch driven by adaptive, digital technologies?
The commercial opportunity presented by printed, personalised merchandise is already a lucrative revenue stream; it is the core driver of growth in a multi-billion-pound industry. And the mandate for print businesses is clear: automate, adapt, and offer undeniable added value, or choose to gradually lose market share.
Powderless DTF is an important area of innovation. It deserves research, investment, and thoughtful development.
“But at its current stage, it often feels like the industry is attempting to commercialize the concept ahead of the underlying chemistry and system readiness”.
All Apparel Manufacturers face an Urgent Mandate: “Automate or be Left Behind”.
Industry leaders like Super Nova Sports and Ryozo International were struggling with severe pre-press bottlenecks and unsustainable fabric waste. By integrating AI Sublimation Software into their workflows, these forward-thinking businesses eliminated manual variable data entry, boosted fabric efficiency to over 80%, and reduced delivery times by more than half, establishing a highly profitable, agile, and environmentally responsible production model.
The Future of Manufacturing belongs to those who Embrace Connected Digital Ecosystems
“Whether you produce garments, car interiors, or home furnishings, the transition from creative concept to production-ready product often remains fragmented. Design teams work tirelessly to develop compelling materials, yet technical teams struggle to interpret these visions without losing data along the way.”
The European digital wallcovering marketplace is expanding at an impressive rate.
“For print professionals and interior designers, this transition presents a distinct set of challenges. Achieving flawless colour consistency, managing complex substrates, and meeting stringent environmental standards are no longer optional extras; they are fundamental requirements for commercial success.”
Goyang-si, South Korea – August 2026 – BARBIERI electronics, a leading innovator in colour measurement solutions, is set to exhibit at K-Print Korea, where the company will demonstrate its flagship Spectro LFP qb spectrophotometer at Booth L502.
Cape Town – South Africa – August 2026 – NUtec Digital Ink has announced that its Quartz Q50-HYB UV-curable hybrid ink has been awarded GREENGUARD Gold Certification and is now listed in the UL Spot database.
The certification marks a significant milestone in the company's ongoing commitment to developing high-performance ink solutions that meet the highest standards for environmental responsibility.
Tirana, Albania – August 2026 – Kridia ArtPrinting Solutions, an Albanian print and interior décor specialist, has announced its adoption of Roland DG's Dimense textured printing technology, positioning the company as the only provider of locally produced, custom embossed wallpaper in Albania.
By integrating the Dimense DA-640, the Dimense Module, and Roland DG Connect Designer into its production workflow, Kridia has significantly improved design efficiency, creative output, and turnaround times across its interior décor projects.
Echbolsheim – France – August 2026 – Caldera has announced that its Direct-to-Film software now supports the Brother DTRX100, one of the most advanced integrated direct-to-film (DTF) production systems available on the market today.
The development extends Caldera's growing portfolio of compatible DTF devices, offering print professionals greater flexibility in their choice of production hardware.
The Brother DTRX100 is a 32-inch roll-to-roll DTF printer engineered for high-volume, continuous production environments.
Rock Hill - SC – August 17, 2026 – SDL Atlas, a global leader in textile testing instruments, has announced the launch of the Vortex Elite, the most advanced instrument in its trusted Vortex series of AATCC Monograph wash testing equipment.
Building on the proven performance of the Vortex M6 and Vortex Plus, the Vortex Elite delivers high-precision, automatic dispensing of multiple liquid components, setting a new benchmark for accuracy, repeatability, and efficiency in textile wash testing.
Birmingham, UK – August 2026 – Epson has announced its participation in The Print Show and The Sign Show 2026, taking place from 29 September to 1 October at the NEC Birmingham.
Visitors to the Epson stand will have the opportunity to explore the company's latest professional printing technologies through live demonstrations, gaining direct insight into how UV, Direct-to-Film (DTF), dye-sublimation and signage solutions can unlock new revenue streams and support business growth.
Raleigh – NC – Aigust 2026 - North Carolina State University has been chosen to lead a 10-year Department of War initiative aimed at modernizing textile manufacturing in the United States to support the defense industry.
The FutureTEX award – which includes $36 million in its first year and has a ceiling of $480 million over a decade – brings together industry, government, university and nonprofit partners to advance manufacturing technologies of textiles for military and domestic applications.
London, UK – August 2026 – UK-based sign and graphics specialist Signs Express has successfully delivered a striking retail installation for the England World Cup Fanatics Shop Experience on London's iconic Carnaby Street, using a range of printable media and laminates from global adhesive media manufacturer Drytac.
Reken – Germany – August 2026 – FabricVision GmbH, a textile and fabric solutions company, has announced a significant operational milestone, marking nearly one year of intensive infrastructure development with the installation of a sign outside its warehouse facility.
While the sign itself may appear modest, it represents the culmination of a year defined by substantial investment and operational transformation
Mexico City, Mexico – August 2026 – HP Graphic Arts has announced its participation in FESPA Mexico 2026, taking place from 10–12 September at Centro Banamex, Mexico City.
The HP Large Format team will be on-site to present its latest advancements in HP Latex and HP DesignJet technologies, offering print professionals a firsthand look at the future of large format printing.
FESPA Mexico is one of Latin America's foremost events for the print and visual communications industry, drawing together professionals, partners, and businesses seeking to stay ahead of an increasingly competitive market
Bracknel – Berkshire - August 2026 – UFABRIK, a leader in high-performance textile solutions, today highlights one of its latest innovation: the UFabrik Opaque Textile ECO.
Engineered for retail, events, exhibitions, banners, and soft signage applications, this groundbreaking blockout textile sets a new standard for sustainable, high-quality print media.
The UFabrik Opaque Textile ECO has been developed to deliver ultimate colour reproduction with both UV and Latex inks.
SOUTH NORMANTON, UK – August 2026 – Sun Chemical, a leading producer of printing inks, coatings, and supplies, has announced its participation in the 27th International Advertising Industry and Digital Printing Technologies Exhibition, SIGN İstanbul.
The company will exhibit at Hall 5, Booth 5C09, where it will present its latest innovations across textile printing, graphics, and packaging solutions to industry professionals from across the region.
Soyang Europe has strengthened its hardware team with the appointments of Andy Webb as Commercial Director and Ian Windebank as Wide-Format Print Specialist.
Both join Soyang with immediate effect, bringing decades of combined experience across print technology, hardware sales, customer support and the wider print industry.
Milano, Italy – August 2026 – Viscom Italia, the leading international trade fair for visual communication and the sign industry, has announced that Hyper Personalisation 2.0 will be a defining theme at its upcoming 2026 edition.
The event will take place on 28th and 29th October at Allianz MiCo Milano, bringing together industry professionals to explore the technologies and trends reshaping the future of print and visual communications.
Hyper Personalisation 2.0 marks a significant evolution in how the printing industry approaches customer engagement
Liverpool – UK – August 2026 – Hobs Repro, the UK's largest independent print network, has selected Razar, produced by Vivid Laminating Technologies Ltd, as part of its continued commitment to innovation and industry-leading service delivery.
The partnership marks a significant milestone for both organisations, bringing together two of the print industry's most forward-thinking names.
El Reno, Oklahoma – August 2026 – Trans-Tech, LLC, an AAR-M-1003 compliant railroad graphics manufacturer and the largest user of premium vinyl in the Southwest, has built its reputation on a straightforward promise: same-day railcar markings, every day.
Powered by a floor of over 20 Summa roll cutters, the El Reno-based company has upheld that standard for two decades, keeping North America's railcars compliant and on the move.
Hanover, Germany – August, 2026 – ColorGATE has announced its participation in the DIPA Workshop – Digital Manufacturing Toolbox, taking place on 15 September 2026 at Kursaal Stuttgart.
The half-day workshop, running from 9:00 AM to 12:00 PM, will bring together leading experts from across the digital manufacturing value chain ahead of Surface in Motion 2026.
Faversham – Kent - August 2026 – Prinfab, a UK-based print-on-demand textile company, has revealed how the industrial Monna Lisa ML-8000 printer sits at the heart of its high-quality, fast-turnaround production model.
By leveraging one of the textile industry's most advanced digital printing systems, Prinfab is removing the barriers that have long prevented independent designers and entrepreneurs from accessing commercial-grade fabric printing.
Nottingham – UK – August 2026 – Tennants UK, a specialist number plate manufacturer, has announced the installation of a second VeloBlade Nexus digital cutting system, significantly expanding its in-house production capabilities.
The investment is designed to meet growing demand from dealership groups, increase manufacturing capacity, and strengthen supply chain resilience.
Spilsby, Lincolnshire,- August 2026 - Countryside Art, a producer of premium bags and kitchen textiles, has announced its commitment to printing exclusively onto 100% cotton across its entire product range.
Central to this commitment is the Mimaki TX330, a high-performance textile printer that delivers the colour consistency and vibrancy that both the brand and its customers demand.
Green Bay, Wis. — August 2026 — BW Converting will introduce textile manufacturers to the capabilities of its Baldwin TexCoat® G4 precision spray finishing system at the 33rd Apparel Sourcing Show, taking place Aug. 18–20 at the Tikal Futura Convention Center in Guatemala City.
The company will participate through its local agent, Maprimaq, at booths 25 and 26.
Soyang Europe, a leading manufacturer and distributor of digitally printable wide-format and superwide-format media, surface coverings and advanced print production hardware solutions, has underlined its long-term commitment to its partnership with Platinum Technologies LIYU by making a major investment in new customer facilities and technical expertise.
Frankfurt am Main – August 2026 – Heimtextil, the world's leading trade fair for home and contract textiles, is set to reveal its highly anticipated Trends 27/28 forecast in a digital live premiere on 7 September 2026 at 14:00 (CEST).
Developed in collaboration with the internationally recognised design platform Alcova, the event will explore one of the most defining tensions in contemporary living: the home as both a space for performance and a place of retreat.
Nanjing – China - August 2026 - The company’s integrated solution portfolio combines digital printing equipment, high-performance printing consumables, and workflow integration to help print providers improve production efficiency across DTF, UV, and sublimation applications.
Driven by shorter production runs, growing demand for personalized products, and increasing sustainability requirements, the printing industry is transitioning from traditional analog production toward more intelligent and integrated digital manufacturing systems.
Hanrun Paper, a global digital printing solutions provider, helps drive this transformation by integrating hardware, consumables, and production workflows into a more connected, efficient, and flexible digital manufacturing ecosystem
Leicester – UK – August 2026 - VeriVide Limited, a leading authority in colour assessment and quality control, has announced the availability of the NCS Exterior Fan Deck, a comprehensive colour tool designed specifically for outdoor environments.
Comprising 322 carefully selected colours, the Fan Deck is tailored for professionals working across architecture, landscaping, property development, and exterior product manufacturing.
Dorking UK – August 2026 – The FESPA Foundation has announced a landmark initiative to unite the global print community under a shared commitment to education, sustainability, and meaningful social impact.
Guided by its "Print for Good" principle, the Foundation is calling on industry stakeholders worldwide to contribute to a movement that positions print as a force for lasting, positive change.
Telford, UK – August 2026 – China Print Supplies UK Ltd today features the availability of the Graphtec CE8000-130 1300mm Vinyl Cutter Plotter, a high-performance cutting solution designed to meet the demands of the sublimation, sign writing, and sticker and label creation markets.
Priced at £3,495.00 + VAT and backed by a one-year warranty, the CE8000-130 represents a significant step forward in cost-effective cutting plotter technology.
Gaziantep, Turkey – August 2026 – Zimmer Austria, in partnership with ERA, is continuing its installation of a Colaris machine at Plato Halı, one of Turkey's leading carpet manufacturers.
This marks the 13th Colaris machine to be installed in Gaziantep, with mass production expected to commence shortly.
Following its successful market launch at the beginning of the year, Felix Schoeller has now received the 2026 Pinnacle Award for RubyPaper in the “Technology” category.
Each year, the PRINTING United Alliance presents the award to pioneering innovations in the printing industry.
This year, a total of 154 entries from 54 companies were submitted for the Pinnacle Award.
Felix Schoeller is one of just 15 companies that entered the competition with a product for the first time and received an award straight away.
North Bergen – NJ – August 2026 – Roland DG Europe has announced that Coach USA's Perfect Body successfully produced 25 FIFA World Cup bus wraps using the TrueVis XP-640 wide-format printer, running operations up to 16 hours a day during one of the company's most demanding production seasons to date