DIGITAL INK – PRINTED PIGMENT AND REACTIVE APPLICATIONS AND PRINT TECHNOLOGY - WE EXPLORE THE LATEST DEVELOPMENTS
“While reactive inks are only printed on natural fibers, such as cotton and silk - Pigment inks, have the ability to be printed on natural and synthetic fibers, allowing all types of fabrics including polyester blends to be printed without difficulty. Additionally Pigment inkjet printing is the subject of widespread technological development both of systems, inks and components.” Technical Editor - Texintel
IMAGE CREDIT: EPSON
In a Global Market for Dyes and Pigments, valued at over USD 36 billion in 2022 and predicted to grow to over USD 57 billion by 2030, textiles are forecast to use a massive 64% share of all dyes and pigments produced. (Grand View Research)
What does that really mean? In a market where Reactive Dyes will take over 55% of that total, these are mainly concentrated in the dyeing of fabrics. Historically Pigments are the dominant ink set in the printing of textiles.
Reactive inks for printing are more sensitive to impurities and environmental conditions such as PH and temperature. Their performance is affected by salt and alkaline residues, and they require a sophisticated and controlled environment for accurate colour reproduction to take place. Moreover, reactive inks are not suitable for all types of fabrics, and the colour range can be limited.
As a result, Pigments have historically been paramount in Textile Printing, where the relatively simple process and ink compositions lend themselves to widespread adoption in emerging manufacturing economies.
It is only recently, that the predominance of pigment use in analogue printing of textiles has started to be replicated in digital textile printing.
This is partly driven by the expansion of digital printing which uses pigment as a favoured option giving not only gives ease of process, with excellent fastnesses, but also elegantly meeting the sustainability challenge by using less power and water than the reactive processes.
At the heart of this growth is the inexorable progress of ink composition and printhead performance which have conquered the early advantage that reactive inks enjoyed over pigments.
In simple terms Pigment Ink printing used relatively large particle sizes embedded in fairly complex binder formulations that restricted the speed and serviceability of digital print machinery. Every pigment ink recipe needs an array of cross-linking agents to fasten the pigment to the fabric, and keeping the ink in a stable solution was a recurring problem which affected the viscosity of the ink.
However, with the development of novel pigment ink formulations by companies such as Kornit Digital and Dupont Artistri, the homogeneity, stability and volume velocity issues attached to early pigments have been overcome.
Kornit’s patented NeoPigment™ ink which delivers a one-step pigment printing process, with no need for pre or post treatment has been developed in-house by chemistry experts specifically for use in digital fabric printers and provides an unprecedented colour gamut, the ability to print any design, in any number of colours, on any fabric base.
At Dupont,the new Artistri® P5500 ink set delivers improved wash fastness with both press or oven curing and with faster curing times. This high gamut volume aqueous-based inks package is designed to work in printers with low-viscosity piezo-electric printheads and is suitable for all DTG applications, including DTF printing.
Yet, the largest leap forward has been in the development of printheads, here Xaar, Epson and Ricoh are driving the adoption of inkjet.
Xaar’s Ultra High Viscosity Technology the Aquinox is capable of jetting fluid viscosities of up to 100cP. By enabling a wider colour gamut and fluids with larger particles and more pigment for higher opacity, colours are more vibrant and whites and blacks.
Meanwhile the new Epson I3200(8)-S1HD and S800-S1 printheads are compatible with a wide variety of inks used for industrial applications. In addition to aqueous, UV-cured, and eco-solvent inks, they support oil-based, solvent, and other types of inks for digital printing applications in production printing.
The I3200(8)-S1HD can handle up to eight colours of ink and deliver resolutions up to 1200 dpi, enabling the rendering of high-resolution images in a variety of situations. The S800-S1 is equipped with only one chip. Its compact design helps to improve productivity in printing environments where space is limited.
At Ricoh three newly developed industrial-grade inkjet printheads, RICOH MH5422, RICOH MH5442, and RICOH MH5422 Type A, provide high image quality and productivity by utilizing Ricoh's high-precision technology. They feature a wide range of ink compatibility and improved durability through enhanced nozzle surface abrasion resistance. Ricoh has also improved system compatibility by applying separate cables and high-precision surface alignment features.
With these and other developments Digital Pigment printing of textiles is on an upward trajectory. Printing with pigment inks is more cost effective and cheaper than reactive inks and has had a large impact on the printing industry.
While reactive inks are only printed on natural fibers, such as cotton and silk - Pigment inks, have the ability to be printed on natural and synthetic fibers, allowing all types of fabrics including polyester blends to be printed without difficulty. Additionally Pigment inkjet printing is the subject of widespread technological development both of systems, inks and components.
One-step processing is the holy grail of digital printing and recent developments from Kornit Digital and D.gen show the way forward.
In Summary: The reactive system with its excellent colours and fastnesses is energy and water intensive - digital pigment printing where the standard and speed plus the advantage of its water and energy efficient processing make it ideal for the print on demand economic model.
The story of what happens when young designers access digital technology is still being written.
What once was a theoretical sustainability goal seems to have shifted into an active regulatory reality.
Is the Textile Market Finally Recovering?
After a difficult few years, there are genuine reasons for optimism. Duncan was candid about the challenges: "The market for textiles has been very difficult over the last three years. I'm not going to hide the truth there. But the tide is turning.“
A profound shift is currently reshaping the sector
Changing consumer expectations demand greater design diversity, faster turnaround times, and sustainable manufacturing practices.
To thrive, interior brands must adapt their supply chains, bringing production closer to the end consumer and moving away from bulk manufacturing.
Digital textile printing offers a definitive solution to these operational bottlenecks.
Digital transformation doesn't announce itself.
It accumulates - one innovation at a time - until an entire industry looks back and realises the ground has shifted beneath its feet. That's precisely where textiles stands today.
The conversations happening now about AI, automation, sustainability, and digital product passports are not theoretical. They are shaping decisions being made on factory floors and in boardrooms right now.
“By leveraging advanced digital textile printing, Marylene Madou has successfully merged traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Her approach offers a blueprint for how independent designers can scale their brands globally while maintaining a minimal environmental footprint.”
From Helsinki's printing mill to Paris's Le Marais, discover how Marimekko is scaling a design-led brand with purpose, craft, and bold innovation.
But what makes Marimekko's story compelling is not just its aesthetic legacy?
The textile industry is undergoing a vital transformation. As the insights from Techtextil and Texprocess reveal, the path forward relies on a combination of sustainable hardware, intelligent chemistry, and seamless digital workflows.
From Zimmer's industrial-scale energy reductions and Stratasys's on-demand 3D embellishments, to Kornit's single-step technical printing and the unified digital ecosystems of NedGraphics and Optitex, the tools for change are here. To stay competitive, brands and manufacturers must adopt these innovations, moving away from fragmented, wasteful processes towards a truly connected, circular economy.
Friedmans stands as a testament to the power of combining traditional textile knowledge with forward-thinking innovation.
“Operating from their UK headquarters, Friedmans now serves a diverse array of sectors, including swimwear, dance, entertainment, sportswear, interior decor, prosthetics, and even pet apparel. With a strategic supply chain that reliably serves clients worldwide”
The apparel decoration industry is decisively moving away from isolated, analogue production tools toward connected digital manufacturing environments.
"Kornit’s unwavering commitment to transformative technology continues to disrupt the status quo. For business leaders and innovators ready to capture the future of apparel manufacturing, the path forward is clear”
The Urgent Need for Sustainability at Scale
The transformation at Coats provides a vital blueprint for the wider textile and apparel sector. True sustainability cannot be achieved in silos. As Dearing emphasised:
“Cross-industry collaboration is the engine of meaningful change. Brands, machinery suppliers, chemical providers, and fibre producers must act as an interconnected ecosystem”
Today’s customers demand superior product quality, real-time data visibility, and lightning-fast turnaround times.
For large-scale garment decorators, managing these expectations while balancing seasonal demand fluctuations - such as the massive surges seen during Black Friday - presents a monumental challenge.
"Relying on transactional vendor relationships and outdated legacy equipment is no longer sufficient to secure long-term stability and growth.”
Printing method is never a secondary detail. It shapes the entire life cycle of a product, from concept to customer. In today’s fashion industry, where margins are tighter and speed matters more than ever, technical knowledge has become a competitive advantage.
“The future of textile design belongs to professionals who can combine creativity with execution, aesthetics with practicality, and vision with production reality”.
Are we witnessing the reinvention of Merch driven by adaptive, digital technologies?
The commercial opportunity presented by printed, personalised merchandise is already a lucrative revenue stream; it is the core driver of growth in a multi-billion-pound industry. And the mandate for print businesses is clear: automate, adapt, and offer undeniable added value, or choose to gradually lose market share.
Powderless DTF is an important area of innovation. It deserves research, investment, and thoughtful development.
“But at its current stage, it often feels like the industry is attempting to commercialize the concept ahead of the underlying chemistry and system readiness”.
All Apparel Manufacturers face an Urgent Mandate: “Automate or be Left Behind”.
Industry leaders like Super Nova Sports and Ryozo International were struggling with severe pre-press bottlenecks and unsustainable fabric waste. By integrating AI Sublimation Software into their workflows, these forward-thinking businesses eliminated manual variable data entry, boosted fabric efficiency to over 80%, and reduced delivery times by more than half, establishing a highly profitable, agile, and environmentally responsible production model.
The Future of Manufacturing belongs to those who Embrace Connected Digital Ecosystems
“Whether you produce garments, car interiors, or home furnishings, the transition from creative concept to production-ready product often remains fragmented. Design teams work tirelessly to develop compelling materials, yet technical teams struggle to interpret these visions without losing data along the way.”
The European digital wallcovering marketplace is expanding at an impressive rate.
“For print professionals and interior designers, this transition presents a distinct set of challenges. Achieving flawless colour consistency, managing complex substrates, and meeting stringent environmental standards are no longer optional extras; they are fundamental requirements for commercial success.”
If you're looking to optimize your website for AI search, hang onto your cowboy hat. It's the Wild West out there. Former (and current) SEO companies see the handwriting on the wall as more search moves from traditional SEO to AEO (answer engine optimisation). Opportunists are popping out of the woodwork.
(There are good options out there, but vet them carefully.)
A swimsuit might start life as a sketch. By the time it reaches the shop floor, dozens of hands have touched it - designers, dye houses, printers, trim manufacturers, quality controllers. Each one interprets colour in their own way, under their own conditions, with their own tools. The result is often a product that looks nothing like the original vision.
New Delhi, India – August 2026 – IKEA, the global home furnishing retailer, has announced its partnership with the Regenerative Cotton Accelerator Programme (RCAP) as a strategic member.
The partnership will see IKEA join RCAP's Steering Group, contributing its cotton sourcing and supply chain expertise to accelerate the adoption of regenerative cotton across India.
Launched in February 2026, RCAP is a joint initiative by Solidaridad Asia, WWF-India, Regenagri and Control Union..
The invention, a dark adsorbent material that can be added to wastewater and separated with a magnet, builds on the team’s 2022 breakthrough in microplastics removal, extending performance to much smaller particles and more complex wastewater.
Microplastics are an increasing global concern, with growing evidence of their presence in water systems.
The researchers say the ability to remove micro‑ and nano‑plastics under practical conditions sets this work apart.
Winterthur – Switzerland - July, 2026 – Recycling Powerhouse Ltd. was established in July 2026 to industrialize, standardize and scale textile recycling.
Based in Switzerland, the venture will operate a franchise-driven business model that enables the production of high-quality, certified recycled yarns.
The project is supported by the following partners: Rieter Group, the world’s leading system supplier for natural and man-made fibers, Säntis Textiles, a Swiss textile engineering company, and Valvan, a Belgian sorting technology company.
Singapore, July 2026 – DyStar, a leading specialty chemicals company with more than a century of expertise in product development and innovation, today announced the release of its FY2025 Sustainability Report, marking a significant milestone in its sustainability journey and reinforcing its commitment to long-term value creation
Germany, France and the Netherlands are advocating coordinated European action against ultra-fast fashion.
The three Member States raised the topic at today’s EU Environment Council in Luxembourg, and called on the European Commission to make existing and planned EU provisions more effective against short-lived, low quality textiles.
Their call was supported by other Member States, including Slovenia and Denmark.
LONDON, June 11: Textile Exchange has published its new polyester Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study, providing robust, accurate, and credible data to strengthen the fashion, textile, and apparel industry’s understanding of the impacts of different types of polyester production.
The study is the second in a series of LCA studies led by Textile Exchange and addresses key gaps and limitations in the LCA data currently available for polyester.
Widnes, Cheshire - 5 June 2026 – On World Environment Day, Roberts Group International has announced a pioneering partnership with St Helens Council, Seamster & Shepherd, and Hope Academy.
The initiative, titled Hope for the Earth: From Reclaimed Textiles to Sustainable Student Fashion Show, empowers students to transform reclaimed textiles into original fashion pieces ahead of a summer showcase event in July.
The collaborative project addresses the urgent need for circularity in the fashion industry by bringing the sustainability message directly into the classroom.
Shenzhen, June 2026 – To address the urgent need for sustainable practices and digital transformation within the global fashion industry, the Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics and Yarn Expo Shenzhen will return from 9 to 11 June 2026.
Held at the Shenzhen Convention and Exhibition Center, the event will host over 600 international exhibitors across 45,000 square metres.
The innovative washing process SMART WASH represents a modern, high-performance, and environmentally conscious approach to textile care.
The targeted combination of the products BEIPLEX GREEN, BEICLEAN ECO, BEIPUR ANP, BEIBLEACH WP 35, and BEIACID CIT creates a holistic, sustainable washing and bleaching concept.
Stuttgart, Germany – May 2026 - Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification continued to grow in 2025, with nearly 18,000 certified facilities worldwide, despite ongoing geopolitical uncertainty and rapidly evolving regulatory requirements across global textile supply chains.
New figures released today in the 2025 Annual Report for Global Standard, the nonprofit that owns and operates GOTS, show that uptake of robust, independently governed sustainability standards remains a priority for companies seeking to manage risk, substantiate claims and meet rising expectations on transparency and due diligence.